I Don't Think I'm Ready For This Jelly: Nectarine-Apricot-Ginger Jam

Preservation is a cool word. Officially it means: "the process of keeping safe, unchanged or in existence." I particularly like how cultures, in order to preserve themselves, had to preserve their food in the process. Like Jews with smoked fish or Southerners and their pickled pigs feet. It's a cool example of great food evolving out of necessity.Nectarine-Apricot-Ginger jam, I presume, did not evolve out of necessity. It evolved out of France. And yesterday I began the process of making it using my new Mes Confitures book. First I went to Whole Foods and bought luscious looking nectarines and apricots:I also bought candied ginger, which is what Virginia Wolfe sends her maid to London to purchase in "The Hours":IMG_2.JPGCandied ginger is ANOTHER preserved food; it's what sushi-eaters developed in Japan to keep their sushi fragrant. And sweet. Incrediblby sweet.Ok, I made that up. But isn't candied ginger the coolest candy? Because it's easy-sweet yet it hurts. Really burns in your mouth like a jolt of fire. A great way to start the day!Moving on, then, we boil the nectarines for 1 minute to loosen their skin:IMG_3.JPGI employed the Barefoot Contessa's technique for peaches where you make an X-shaped slit at the bottom of the fruit before boiling so when it comes out you can just peel the skin off. That didn't work with the nectarines. I had to use a peeler. It was humiliating.Now then, we reach the tumultuous part of our story. After slicing up the apricots and nectarines...IMG_4.JPG...I read her next instruction: "Squeeze the lemon on the fruit to prevent oxidization."WHAT LEMON?If you read her ingredients there is no lemon. How am I supposed to squeeze a lemon if I don't have a lemon!So I did what any jam-chef in my shoes would do. I ran back to Whole Foods--sprinting all the way--to buy a lemon. I arrived there covered in sweat. I grabbed a lemon. I threw money at the cashier. I ran back: my fruit was oxidizing!IMG_5.JPGI burst through the door and squeezed lemon all over the fruit (and my cat in the process). Lolita was not happy.Now then, the ginger:IMG_6.JPGThere are many people who don't realize that ginger looks like this in its natural state. They think the ginger they get with sushi is normal natural-state ginger. WRONG! That's PICKLED ginger. Pickling ginger is a preservation technique developed by the Loxahachee Tribe in Florida to keep their eyelids moist.So we chop that ginger:IMG_7.JPGAdd it to the fruit, cover in tons of sugar, and add three cloves:IMG_8.JPGNow then we start cooking it:IMG_9.JPGUntil the sugar melts and it starts simmering:IMG_10.JPGThis is cool because the only liquid that's in there is the fruit juice, so you know it's going to taste right and fruity.Pour into a bowl and refrigerate overnight:IMG_11.JPGTIME PASSES. OVERNIGHT, IN FACT. ADAM SLEEPS AND DREAMS OF A RIDING A CAMEL THROUGH A SUPERMARKET WHILE SINGING "MY SWEET LORD" BY GEORGE HARRISON. PEOPLE THROW ATKINS-RELATED PRODUCTS AT HIM. HE BECOMES A MARTYR AND A MUSICAL IS WRITTEN ABOUT HIM STARRING GEORGE WENDT. ADAM AWAKES.Now then, we chop up the candied ginger:IMG_12.JPGPull our fruit from the fridge:IMG_13.JPGAnd sterilize our jars:IMG_14.JPGFirst I cleaned them with anti-bacterial soap and then I put them in the 225 degree oven. I figured keeping them face down would ensure that heat could get in while I placed the lids on their bottoms, because I feared putting the lids on the rack directly would melt them.Meanwhile, I started cooking the jam:IMG_15.JPGHer instruction is to get the jam to 221 degrees. It just wasn't getting there. So I put the lid over it and it got there. I took a jar out of the oven. It was very hot. I immediately poured the jam into the jar, wiped the lid, sealed it up and gloated over my achievement:IMG_16.JPGGorgeous, no? A proud achievement indeed.And then for the failure. While I was gloating, my jam started burning:IMG_17.JPGI tried to fill the second jar but it was beyond redemption:IMG_18.JPGNow I felt like a jam loser.So I looked at my good jam again:IMG_19.JPGI felt like a winner again.My ego was safely preserved.

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Adam Potter and the Pickles of Azkaban (Plus a Tiny Spell of Family History)