[From the 4/7/25 newsletter]

In neighborhood news, for the past year and half that we’ve lived in Brooklyn, I’d let go of the idea of getting into Lucali, Beyoncé’s favorite pizza spot. There’s always a line wrapped around the block at 3 PM, and that’s just to get a reservation for later in the night (and there’s no guarantee you’ll get in).

Well on Thursday last week, at four o’clock, it was an overcast day and I decided to take Winston for a big walk. When I got to Lucali, I noticed that there was nobody outside. What?! I stood there, thinking this must be some kind of mistake, and a woman came out with a clipboard and asked me when I wanted to come back. “Six?”” “Perfect,” she said. “We’ll see you then.”

I don’t know how I got so lucky, but when we came back at six, the place was bopping. Bobby Canavale was there, but no Beyoncé or Jay-Z in sight.

The pizza was excellent. The sauce was tangy, the cheese well-melted, but it was the crust that makes this place so special. It’s crispy enough to be called “cracker-like” but chewy enough to make it more interesting.

I was a huge fan, though Craig — always a bit cynical about anything trendy or faddish or requiring a two hour line — didn’t think it would be worth the waiting in line. He said the pizza that he had at L’Industrie in the West Village was just as good, if not better. (To be fair, there’s normally a huge line there too.)

The calzone was also notable for its crust and its decadent cheese filling:

I’ve never eaten anything quite like it. True, I scorched the roof of my mouth on the molten cheese; but once it cooled, and I dipped it into the zingy sauce, I was in carbohydrate heaven.

What I loved most about Lucali was the vibe. Everyone was so nice, the room was so fun, and — I forgot to mention — it’s BYOB. I brought a Beaujolais which wasn’t a good pairing, it’s just what I had in the wine rack. Next time, I’ll bring an Italian red and I’m not talking about Bernadette Peters.

Lucali / 575 Henry St, Brooklyn, NY 11231 / (718) 858-4086

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