Bar Bête
When I went on Watch What Happens Live to promote my novel Food Person, I was told that Andy would be asking me one and only one question: “What’s the book about?”
However, once I was plied with Negronis and the taping began, I was thrown for a loop when Andy looked up at me at the bar and asked, “Adam, what’s your favorite restaurant in New York?” That wasn’t the question I’d been prepared for! Luckily, I knew the answer like I know my own address: “Bar Bête in Brooklyn.” It really is my favorite restaurant in the city.
When we told our friend Albertina that we were moving to Boerum Hill/Carroll Gardens two years ago, she told us that she was a regular at Bar Bête and that the food was always incredible. So pretty quickly, we found ourselves there and we were immediately taken by the charm and warmth of the space, with its floor-to-ceiling glass windows giving a panoramic view of Smith Street and mirrors on the wall for those who don’t get to face them.
The drinks are always made with love and they change seasonally. Craig is drinking the “Dark” cocktail (the others are “Light” and “Citrus”) with Rye, Amaro Nonino, Carpano Antica, Sloe gin, and OPC bitters. As a recent non-drinker, I delight in their N.A. Highball with Pathfinder n/a amaro, honey, lime, and ginger beer.
Incidentally, Eric Asimov recently singled out Bar Bête in the NYT for having a “terrific, reasonably priced selection of wines by the glass, along with an enlightened bottle list that has something for everyone.”
To pair with those drinks, last night we ordered these curried cashews which came with actual fried curry leaves:
They were so well-spiced and seasoned, they were impossible to stop eating.
The only problem with going to Bar Bête with Craig is that he loves two menu items so much, he insists on getting them every single time. So it’s mandatory that we order the Little Salad with pickled mushrooms, crispy shallots, and an intense mustard dressing.
This salad should be studied in culinary school. The little gem lettuce is so crisp and pristine; the dressing has so much mustardy heat to it (they say they just use a really strong Dijon); the pickled mushrooms add an element of textural surprise; and then the crispy shallots add even more texture and sweetness. It’s pretty flawless.
Craig’s other mandatory dish is the Leeks Vinaigrette with Hazelnuts, Golden Raisins, and Parmesan.
Unlike the stringy long leeks you might get at a typical French bistro, these leeks are already cut up and beautifully balanced with the nuts, raisins, and cheese. Each bite is a little celebration in your mouth.
Lest you think the food at Bar Bête looks too light, part of Craig’s strategy here is to steer me away from the heavier items that I like to order, like the impossibly decadent chicken liver mousse with giant pieces of grilled bread:
The mousse is usually served some kind of flavored butter and topped with a seasonal fruit and its so rich and intense, a little goes a long way; but also, a little is never quite enough.
In a similar vein, I think it should be illegal to go to Bar Bête without ordering the duck fat potatoes with garlic aioli.
Never has a potato been crisper; never has an aioli been creamier. The two together cause a chemical reaction that rivals the atomic bomb.
Also worth mentioning: their tuna toast with fermented chili and garlic chive.
The colors alone are worth the price of admission; but the raw tuna combined with hot chilies is like a trip to Contramar in Mexico City without having to leave your seat.
The entrees are where things become even more creative; they’re constantly rotating with the season.
Last night we had the Mackerel Brochette with La Ratte Potato, Thomcord Grapes, and Horseradish:
That picture reveals everything that I love about Bar Bête: the creative pairings, the fresh ingredients, the seasonality, the fact that it looks homey but also formal at the same time. And the flavors are always killer.
In the past, we’ve also had their light-as-air ricotta gnudi:
If you’ve craving red meat, their steak is the real deal, topped with a piece of funky blue cheese.
Needless to say, Bar Bête is where we take family and friends when they come to town.
It’s also our preferred spot for celebrating birthdays and anniversaries. And Bar Bête offers the perfect dessert for that; maybe one of the best restaurant desserts I’ve ever encountered because of the nostalgic strings it plucks. That would be their yellow cake with dark chocolate frosting and sea salt.
Ending dinner at Bar Bête without this cake would be like ending your honeymoon without having sex; it doesn’t bode well for your future happiness.
My only hesitation in singing the praises of Bar Bête so much here is that we don’t want it to get too popular or we won’t be able to get in! So let’s keep this secret between us, Eric Asimov, and Andy Cohen. When it comes to the best restaurant in New York right now, look no further than Bar Bête.
Bar Bête / 263 Smith St, Brooklyn, NY 11231 / (347) 844-9950
